VITAMIN C VC-IP

Vitamin C VC-IP improving pigmentation compared to control group
Vitamin C VC-IP improving pigmentation compared to control group over the span of 56 days

Proven Active Ingredients: Oil-Soluble Vitamin C Derivative – VC-IP “Super C”

INCI Name : Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.( www.nikkol.co.jp)

Inhibition of Melanogenesis – Anti Pigmentation

Various concentrations of VC-IP were added to cultured human melanoma cells (HM-3-KO). After 4 days of cultivation, the amount of melanin produced was measured by observation of the color tone of each cell pellet. As shown below, VC-IP effectively inhibited melanogenesis in human melanoma cells. Results were dose-dependent.

Vitamin C VC-IP effectiveness

Inhibition of Intracellular Tyrosinase Activity

VC-IP was added into mouse melanoma cells (B16-4A5) at various concentrations. After a 72-hour cultivation, the cells were dissolved and extracted. L-Dopa was then added to the extract. After 60 minutes at 37◦C, the amount of dopachrome formed by the activity of tyrosinase was evaluated by measuring its absorbance at 540 nm. Figure below shows that at a concentration of 0.02% and above VC-IP inhibited the activity of intracellular tyrosinase

Clinical In-Vivo Study on VC-IP (3%)

Number of volunteers: 30

Testing site: Inner side of volunteer’s upper arm

Testing period: 3 weeks

Procedure: For the first step of the test, minimal erythema dose (MED) of each volunteer is measured using solar simulator. Briefly, 6 dosed of UV ray are irradiated to the inner side of right upper arm. After 24 hours from irradiation, MED is judged. For the second step, 1.5 MED of UV ray is irradiated on the inner side of left upper arm of each volunteer in order to make pigmentation.

Sample application is started just after irradiation. Sample is applied twice a day during test period. Sample application sites are randomly changed in every volunteer in order to maintain integrity.

Vitamin C VC-IP effectiveness on skin enzyme compared to regular L-ascorbic acid

Cell Revitalizing Activity / Cell Proliferation

VC-IP was added at various concentrations to human fibroblasts (NB1RGB). After 3 days of cultivation, the cell growth rate was measured by MTT reduction assay. As shown below, VC-IP proliferated human fibroblasts. Result is dose-dependent

Promotion of Collagen Synthesis

Proline involved in collagen synthesis was labeled by 3H and added to human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) with various concentrations of VC-IP/L-ascorbic acid and cultivated for 24 hours. Then collagen fractions were obtained. The amount of 3H taken into the collagen fraction was measured by using a liquid scintillation counter and slot blotter. As shown below, VC-IP significantly promoted collagen synthesis.

Inhibited activity of Collagen degrading enzymes

VC-IP was added at concentration of 10-50µ mol/L to human dremal fibroblasts (NHDF). After 48-Hour cultivation, secreted matrial was obtained. In the secreted material – activity of two types of collagen dergading enzymes, MMP-2 (72kDa) and MMP-9 (92kDa), were evaluated by gelatin zymography. VC-IP drastically inhibited the activity of both MMP-2 and MMP-9. The inhibitory effect was considerably higher than that of L-ascorbic acid.

Percutaneous Absorption of VC-IP

Percutaneous absorption of VC-IP was measured with a tissue section isolated from human skin. VC-IP showed superior penetration ability into the epidermis. VC-IP is an oil-soluble liquid and has a high affinity for the skin. This seems to explain the excellent percutaneous absorption. This ability can be enhanced when VCIP is used together with Polyolprepolymer-2 (PP-2, Bertek Pharmaceuticals).

Efficient Absorption into Human Dermal Fibroblasts

The absorption of VC-IP into human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) was measured as a concentration of ascorbic acid 2 hours after adding VC-IP. As shown below, the intake of ascorbic acid into the skin after the addition of VC-IP was considerably higher than that after the addition of L-ascorbic acid by itself. It was proven that VC-IP was rapidly broken down into ascorbic acid at a high conversion rate.
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